How to change front wheel bearing on AUDI A4 B6 TUTORIAL | AUTODOC
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- Опубликовано: 2 ноя 2016
- How to change front wheel bearing / Front Wheel Bearing Kit / Front hub Bearing / Front wheel Hub Bearing / Front wheel Bearing Kit on AUDI A4 B6 TUTORIAL | AUTODOC
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This video only contains tips and recommendations that could be helpful when carrying out car repairs or replacing parts. AUTODOC is not liable for any harm, injury or property damage incurred while carrying out repairs or replacements, that are a result of incorrect use or misinterpretation of the provided information. This video is for informational purposes only and does not guarantee achievement of a specific result. The user is personally liable for incorrect use of repair equipment, tools or car parts, in particular, when this use poses the risk of injury. AUTODOC strongly recommends being careful and adhering to the safety rules when doing any repair or replacement. Keep in mind that using low quality auto parts does not guarantee the proper level of road safety.
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Just some advice from someone who just did this. It's not actually hard to do this... if everything would actually come out as easy as on this video and others. However there is plenty of salt where I'm at. And I don't have a lift. I found it necessary to take the axle out which is no big deal on a B6 because the axle doesn't need a seal on the transmission side like to B5. Once you take the axle out you're going to have to heat the bearing and beat it with a hammer from behind. it was the only way it came out. Then you're going to have to clean the bearing housing there will be a ton of corrosion. You don't need a slide hammer to remove the Hub as long as you have longer bolts that you could put through where the wheel lugs go. You can pick two holes and just keep threading in these longer bolts and it will pry the hub off. To remove the race that will remain on the Hub, place the hub on a metal bench or the asphalt with the Hub disc facing up. Heat the race up with some MAPP gas and it will fall right off.
All the videos I watched on this, none of them mentioned what to do with the washers that have the lips on them that comes with the new bearing. These washers are pressed on to the hub and don't need to be changed unless they are rusted or warped. Hope that help somebody out. Good luck
Thank you for the feedback! We are grateful for such a detailed clarification, this information will be useful for our viewers and for us. Our new videos will show this replacement in more details. Best regards, Autodoc.
Thank you! Will be doing this soon.
Unbelievable how much you helped me out!
Same now I have to do the driver side😞
@gabrielkidder8112 its recommended to always do them in pairs. You'll be fine 👍
Excellent video, especially for seeing what's going on back there, however for most easier to just drop the lower arm out of the way and replace in situe.
He makes it look so easy!!
I'm midway through this job. Just waiting for the new pinch bolt to arrive, as the head sheared off. I then jacked it out using the nut, adding spacers until it was half out. Then I had to saw the tail off the bolt else is fouls the control arm, I was 'lucky' in that the remaining bolt then hammered out. All the top links were a nightmare to split, all being corroded together.
If the other side needs replacing, I will probably take out the drive shaft (as they come out real easy). You can then access the bearing bolts. It's not necessary to remove the control arm, as the bearing is pressed into the housing, then just bolts back into the arm. Simples. (I'm kicking myself for using this method). Another tip if you do try this at home, when replacing the control arm, remember to jack up both sides if the car, else the anti roll bar will act and move the lower front arm forwards, and you never get the two lower arms back into the control arm (stumped me for a while!!)
Thank you for sharing your experience, it will be very useful information for us and our viewers.
great video, very helpful. Love the music
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
very professional and well filmed!!👍🏼👌🏼
Thank you for your feedback! We appreciate your nice comment. Best regards, Autodoc.
you dont need to remove the knuckle for this job. Now you will need an alignment done. Extra cost that is not necessary. Besides that, the video is good.
Thank you for your feedback! You are right - one can carry out such replacement without taking off the suspension parts, however , but to demonstrate it more easy-to-see, we had to disassemble more car parts than it is usually required. Best regards, Autodoc.
@@autodocuk then you should put that as a disclaimer on the video. Just a suggestion.
@@autodocuk BS. There's no need to see anything. This is 4 times as much work as necessary. You don't need to remove the steering knuckle and if you spend a few bucks more for a hub/bearing module you don't even need to mess with pressing any bearings.
excellent video
Thank you for the feedback! We are glad that our tutorial was useful for you. Best regards, Autodoc.
Great video, but not sure about hitting an unprotected thread at 4:25... ouch !
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
Love the tutorials but can you please do audi a5 8f wheel bearing?
Thank you for your comment, we will certainly take into account your wishes when taking new videos.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
great video！Thank you
Thank you for the feedback! Thank you for the interest in our channel. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
Further to my previous comment, I forgot to add, I don't have nice press, but used a bench vice to push the new bearing in. It goes in real easy, no need for tonnes of force. Just make sure its all square.
Thank you for sharing your experience, it will be very useful information for us and our viewers.
Is it same for quattro b6? And thanks for video
yes.
Thank you for your feedback! In general, the replacement will be the same, the only thing may differ slightly in the design features of your car
Best regards, Autodoc!
Do none of these fasteners require being torqued to specification?
Thank you for your attention to the details.
You are absolutely right, you should use a torque wrench, but in the new videos, we have already fixed this error.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team
Wheel bearing bolts are not Torx. They are triple square / XZN M12. Also I would suggest to clean the knuckle surface before putting new wheel bearing.
Thank you for your comment! We will make sure to include this information in our upcoming videos! Best Regards, Autodoc Team.
OMG you don't need to remove the steering knucke to do this job.
Thank you for the clarification. We're sure your comment will be helpful to many of our viewers.
I wish my pinch bolt came out like that.also not a good idea to impact the 4 bearing bolts when the bearing wasnt seated evenly lucky you didnt cross thread one of them.
Thank you for the feedback! We hope that our tutorial was helpful for you. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
It's unnecessary to mess with any pinch bolts to do this job.
yea that upper bolt never comes out that easy. it breaks in that spindle
It depends on many factors, mainly on the climate and operating locations.
As you can see we managed to do this. Thank you for your feedback! Best regards, Autodoc.
Exactly like mines done now I can't get it out for the life of me! Or the tie rod fastener live out in country side salty roads etc
@@autodocuk got any tips on the above?
@@DevJB What I ended up doing was, using washer and a bolt to keep pulling the top mount bolt out the seize was tight enough to have it pull itself out just kept adding washer till it fell out! the keeping straight is a solid tip and I was I had that!
@@CurtyCruise Awesome wedging idea!
I was lucky on recent Audi S4, was able to leave nut at the end of bolt and used PB and bottle hand torch heat because it was 35°f, few whacks while turning the bolt got pinch bolts to move then I used wrenches stacked as the wedge to back them out. I probably should have applied some anti seize on the new ones, oh well. ; )
Good video, but why no use of torque wrench? Correct torque on fasteners is critical especially on a hub nut, air gun simply is not good enough and is bad practice I can guarantee this will not be the last OSF bearing this car will need.
Thank you for your feedback! To save the time in the video some stages of the repairs might have been excluded.. In practice the torque wrench should be used. Best Regards, Autodoc.
Absolute nonsense, why would the bearing fail? There's nowhere that has over or underloaded that bearing by not torquing any bolts. Ive done thousands of wheel bearings and never had a repeat failure or any other kind of damage.
@@petermartin7154 do you think 6 tonne press is enough to do this yourself or get 12 tonne just to be safe?
MrGilly 6 tonne is rarely of any use for double race bearings. 12 tonne is much more likely to fulfil your needs
Peter Martin Well done! hope your logic brings you continued success, and my six years studying mechanical engineering and 30 years in the industry were a complete waste of time, why did I bother?
he did way to much work, its enough to release hub bolts from behind, then remove hub with hub remove hummer and replace with new one....whoalaa done..:D
ruclips.net/video/YWO0kViwmLk/видео.html thats what i am talking about, easiest way;)
Thank you for the feedback! Thank you for the interest in our channel. Stay tuned and follow our latest updates. Best regards, Autodoc.
That only works when the bearingcase isn't rotten or maybe the better word is 'melted' together with the aluminum after 15 years of ageing. Then it's impossible to remove the bearing and hub from the front. But when you are lucky, and the previous owner lubed the whole bearingcase with cuppergrease, Yes, then it's a piece of cake to remove without removing whole freaking thing :-)
@@livy4life you can cut it out in situ if you have the right equipment such as a die grinder etc
What is a 45 minute job on a 3 Series, 3 hours on an Audi.
Thank you for your comment!
Please clarify or rephrase your question and we will be able to help you.
Best Regards,
Autodoc team.
No its not. I just did one in 40mins
@@petermartin7154 Good for you! xxxx
Wrong. This is 4 times as much work as necessary. You don't need to remove the steering knuckle as shown here and if you spend a few bucks more for a hub/bearing module you don't even need to mess with pressing any bearings. It's a 45 min. job.
Every single part he touched is either brand new, or has been broken free just before filming to make it look easy. Pathetic.
That's not the worst of it. You don't need to remove the steering knuckle and if you spend a few bucks more for a hub/bearing module you don't even need to mess with pressing any bearings. What the video shows is 4 times as much work as necessary.